Oct 20, 2012 - 2 min - Uploaded by LacaraudioWe removed the factory stereo and speakers to install a double din touchscreen stereo w.

Deep discounts on car installation gear With most stereo and speaker purchases, we offer installation guides, dash kits, wiring harnesses, and speaker accessories at deep discounts. Also, you can just buy our installation guides for $10. (If you buy a new stereo or speakers from us within 60 days, we'll apply the $10 to your order.) Trusted since 1974 Our customers have trusted us with their business, and they’ve helped us win awards for our service. Factory-authorized dealer The manufacturer’s warranty always applies. Free Shipping • 60-Day Returns • Lifetime Tech Support • • Home Audio & Smart Home • • Home Audio & Smart Home • • • Receivers & Amplifiers • • • • • • • Audio Components • • • • • • • • Wireless Speakers & Audio • • • • • • • Home Speakers • • • • • • • • • • • • • Smart Home • • • Networking • • • TV Sound Solutions • • • Computer Audio • • • Furniture • • • • • • Accessories • • • • • • Home Theater • • • High-Resolution Audio • • • Design & Installation Services • • • • • • Specials • • • Outlet • • • Articles & Videos •. Free Shipping • 60-Day Returns • Lifetime Tech Support • Home Audio & Smart Home • • Home Audio & Smart Home • • • Receivers & Amplifiers • • • • • • • Audio Components • • • • • • • • Wireless Speakers & Audio • • • • • • • Home Speakers • • • • • • • • • • • • • Smart Home • • • Networking • • • TV Sound Solutions • • • Computer Audio • • • Furniture • • • • • • Accessories • • • • • • Home Theater • • • High-Resolution Audio • • • Design & Installation Services • • • • • • Specials • • • Outlet • • • Articles & Videos •. Just about every car on the road these days features a factory stereo.

To help you find compatible aftermarket replacements, we've disassembled the dashes and door panels of tens of thousands of vehicles, measured the spaces where these factory stereos and speakers fit, and loaded our findings into our massive fit database. Our system then compares these measurements to the dimensions of a given receiver or speaker to determine of the product will fit in the factory location. Check out for your car above to get an idea of the kinds of vehicle information our research team gathers. Sometimes we say that a product works with your vehicle. This means that it doesn't necessarily fit in a factory location, but that it's designed to be compatible with your vehicle's electronics or interior design.

Compatible products include products like adapters (for Bluetooth or smartphone control, for example) that plug into your vehicle's stereo wiring harness and device holders mounts in a specific spot on the dash. We also carry a wide range of products that are designed to work exclusively with specific vehicles. See below to learn more. Use our Kit Finder to find the right installation gear for you. At Crutchfield, we know that if you're going to install your own stereo, you'll need two things: to know that the one you're interested in fits in your car, and to get the installation parts and instructions that make the job easier and give you professional results. Unless, of course, you're an experienced installer and are doing a fully custom job, in which case, we'd like you to!

When you shop with us, you'll see: • Filtered lists of stereos that we know fit in your dash • The installation parts required to install the stereo you're interested in, plus the parts that let you keep certain advanced factory features, all bundled in easy-to-add packages With most orders, you'll also get a set of vehicle-specific instructions, such as our exclusive MasterSheets, which offer step-by-step guidance and detailed illustrations or photos, created from the info gathered by our vehicle research team. They're available for thousands of vehicles. If you're in the market for new speakers, here's what you'll find when you shop with us: • Filtered lists of speakers that satisfy the depth, diameter, and height requirements of your vehicles factory speaker openings • A breakdown of speakers available for specific locations in your car • These can include locations that don't have factory speakers, but can be adapted with certain mounting adapters, such as pods that let you mount speakers in your kick panels • We won't list a given location if no speaker option is available for it.

When you use Outfit My Car sm, you'll see the kinds of essential factory stereo and speaker information our research team gathers. • Alerts to add the required brackets and harnesses to your cart — these are free when you buy any set of speakers from us Speaker orders also qualify you to receive the vehicle-specific installation instructions we offer.

Many car A/V products we describe as “universal,” in that there aren't dedicated factory locations for them. With many of these products, you'll have to check your vehicle for available space, and carefully plan your installation in advance.

The most common include: • Amplifiers Amps require three things: a mounting location, power wiring directly to your car's battery, and wiring for musical signal. You'll need to check the dimensions of the amps you're interested in, which we provide, then measure the available space you have in your vehicle. Mounting locations can include underneath seats or in the trunk or cargo area. We'll show you the size of wires you'll need when you make your purchase, and we can offer tips online and by phone for wiring strategies.

• Subwoofers Just about all subwoofers need to be mounted in an enclosure, which then fits in an available spot in your car. As with an amplifier, you'll need to measure space in your vehicle to see if the subwoofer you're interested in will fit, while leaving you enough cargo space for your needs. If you choose a powered subwoofer, we'll make sure you get the right power wiring; if you choose a sub and box, we'll recommend the right size of speaker wire, which you'll connect to the external amp that'll send power to the sub.

• Portable products such as GPS navigators, radar detectors, and dash cams. You'll just want to make sure that you have a dash or windshield large enough to accommodate the mounting systems of these sorts of products without interfering with your sight or operation of the vehicle.

Hey guys, I'm going to add a sub that I had from my previous car into my 06 c230 this weekend so of course MBWorld would be my first stop. I searched for a few days on this and found a lot of threads, but the portion for running the power to the battery is what is eluding me. I did see one install where the poster recommended removing the plate underneath the glove box, where I can find four holes that go through the side wall.

My only problem is that I looked at the hole and there's now way 4 gauge wiring is fitting through there. I'm running a single 10' JL W3v3-4 and I really don't feel comfortable running 8 gauge wiring to that. I also saw another post where the poster ran the power to the stock amp under the seat and tapped that for power, but that doesn't sound too safe either. My question is, to those who have added subs with 4 gauge wiring. What's the safest and easiest way to get the 4 gauge wiring through the firewall. Hey guys, I'm going to add a sub that I had from my previous car into my 06 c230 this weekend so of course MBWorld would be my first stop. I searched for a few days on this and found a lot of threads, but the portion for running the power to the battery is what is eluding me.

I did see one install where the poster recommended removing the plate underneath the glove box, where I can find four holes that go through the side wall. Economics For The Ib Diploma Ellie Tragakes Pdf Download here. My only problem is that I looked at the hole and there's now way 4 gauge wiring is fitting through there. I'm running a single 10' JL W3v3-4 and I really don't feel comfortable running 8 gauge wiring to that.

I also saw another post where the poster ran the power to the stock amp under the seat and tapped that for power, but that doesn't sound too safe either. My question is, to those who have added subs with 4 gauge wiring.

What's the safest and easiest way to get the 4 gauge wiring through the firewall. Company Law By Luqman Baig Pdf Viewer. Thanks!drill a hole and use a grommet. Did you build that tray yourself?yes of course. The sub fires up thru the existing sub mounting holes. The tray is hung via 4 bolts installed from the top.

Heluva job to remove the rear deck to do this. Right now I am running a 600 watt Pioneer PRS sub amp driving the DLS 10 inch sub. A 2x300 watt PRS amp for the DLS Nobelium mids, and 4x 75 watts for the DLS Tweets tweets and rears. Awesome stuff.

The C Class is so very quiet inside and the doors dont rattle at all I also opened up the audio unit and solderd RCA outs to the pc board right after the DSP/DAC outputs. I know this thread is more than a year old, but let me see if I can save everyone a little time. To install a sub amp in the rear you do not need to run a wire from the battery through the fire wall under the carpet to the trunk. There is no commercial 12 volt amp that can consume the current supplied by an AWG 4 wire. The factory runs an AWG 8 wire from the battery to the fuse block in the rear that is properly protected. I cringe when installers run a wire from the battery terminal directly to an amplifier. They have no experience with wire or circuit protection, and it make the car a prime candidate for a car-be-que on Interstate 10.

The terminals on the amps and the wire terminals commonly used cannot use the ampacity of an AWG 4 wire. Your hearing cannot stand the SPL produced by a '1,200 watt' amp. Thankfully the ratings in automotive aftermarket sound equipment are more inflated than mpg figures on a window sticker.

You can tap the power in the back, properly protect the wiring, and still have enough hip-hop thump to annoy drivers four cars back. To install a sub amp in the rear you do not need to run a wire from the battery through the fire wall under the carpet to the trunk. There is no commercial 12 volt amp that can consume the current supplied by an AWG 4 wire. The factory runs an AWG 8 wire from the battery to the fuse block in the rear that is properly protected. I cringe when installers run a wire from the battery terminal directly to an amplifier. They have no experience with wire or circuit protection, and it make the car a prime candidate for a car-be-que on Interstate 10.This is what I was hoping to hear.

Hate to mess with a well-packaged set of wiring, especially when there are so many taps off the positive battery terminal already. So if there is a way to use the power supply to the rear SAM without affecting the operation of the SAM, I'm interested. Fyi the 12v wire gauge charts found online aren't very consistent.

The amperage ratings of 8AWGwire at 10' range from 30A-150A in these examples: I have a couple of photos of the back of my SAM showing where the 12v power cable enters the unit, and a set of external fuse taps on the bottom (17-19) that are rated at 20A each. I would venture to say from these photos that the power cable looks more like 4AWG than 8.

It's a good 1/4' diameter. The fuse ratings on the installed fuses for this SAM (third photo) show a total of around 200A, and adding in the empty slots, closer to 300A. Are you sure this isn't a 4AWG power feed? If the battery power cable to the rear SAM is a good enough source of power, what is the best way to tap into it? Do you suggest tapping into the cable itself before the SAM? Or using one of the designated external fuse locations (17-19 in my case) located at the bottom of the SAM? What I don't know is if these external taps run through the SAM logic board or if they are just directly connected to the incoming power cable.

I would only want to use them if the latter were true). I just took a look. It's at the bottom of the SAM. There are four spots for these adapters to plug in. However I could not figure out how to pull it out, and didn't want to break it, so unfortunately no part # for now.

Not that it will help, but FYI I found this sub position to have the least amount of bloated resonance in my trunk. Coincidentally it's directly under the pass-thru vent area so it allows a bit more of the bass to enter the cabin. I plan to build a custom box there to tuck the sub under the ledge and further forward towards the rear seat, and box it in to prevent sound from getting into the rest of the trunk where it will just resonate. And if that goes well I may try upping it to a 12'. I just took a look.

It's at the bottom of the SAM. There are four spots for these adapters to plug in.

However I could not figure out how to pull it out, and didn't want to break it, so unfortunately no part # for now. Not that it will help, but FYI I found this sub position to have the least amount of bloated resonance in my trunk. Coincidentally it's directly under the pass-thru vent area so it allows a bit more of the bass to enter the cabin.

I plan to build a custom box there to tuck the sub under the ledge and further forward towards the rear seat, and box it in to prevent sound from getting into the rest of the trunk where it will just resonate. And if that goes well I may try upping it to a 12'.