Read Online Myford super 7 lathe manuals >>myford super 7 clutch myford super 7 headstock adjustment myford lathe stand dimensions myford super 7 gearbox manual myford lathe serial numbers myford ml7 lathe manual pdf myford ml10 specifications myford super 7 power cross. Dec 11, 2011 P.S. Your browser may try to block the redirection to another page, I think that it is safe to do so, it is just transferring you to the translated page.

As I believe I'm correct in saying that the type of drum shown was first designed by Paul Bugl. This proved a big success in increasing power output to fuel consumption but that in turn lead to overheating of the conrod big end as the incoming fuel no longer flushed across that area but is drawn in straight up into the ports. Perhaps AES if he reads this can enlighten us a little more on this fact. There is some information on the MEN site somewhere on the Bugl drum - the tolerances of fit are quite something as I recall. What also interests me is that the first part of the text is credited to Yuri Sirotkin. Sirotkin was an accomplished control line aerobatic pilot who designed a lovely model called the Spacehound. - I still have the plan which was published in the Aeromodeller after he won the World Championships but have never built it.

However, some years back I was trying to find out about another stunt model he designed a photo of which is featured in the well known Ron Moulton Control Line Manual. As far as I'm aware the design of this particular model which appears to be much larger than the Spacehound and is very jet like with the undercarriage disguised within the underslung 'jet engine pods' had never been published in the western world. The fact that it's in the manual predates 1969 which is the cut off point for the 'Classic' period of model which was my preferred area. My interest was trying to establish a provenance so that it could be used for competition. Researches eventually lead to the fact that 'Sirotkin was no longer involved with model flying and would not respond to any contact'.

Ah well it's now far too late to go over that old ground again as I've definitely hung up the old handle - my models are probably confined to the hangar wall for good now. HIGHLIGHTS FOR FLIGHT Among the many classes of flying models is dominated by motor model. This is primarily radio-controlled, aerobatics, speed, timer, racing, models of the original and 'batutnye' model. Adobe Illustrator Cs3 Keygen Download Free. For each class of engine are presented specific requirements.

On the radio controlled, typically used maximum cubic capacity engines - with a working volume 10 cm 3. Usually they are not very fast, but powerful, with a sufficiently large control range (maximum operating speed 12 thousand rev / min, the minimum - 3-4 thousand).

The main requirement for such an engine - a stable operation over the entire range of regulation, from maximum speed to the lowest possible. In 1969, the Central Sports Club of aviation modeling engine designed for 10 TSSKLM radiomodeley. It was successfully tested and is currently under production. In the class aerobatic models use very different engine cubic capacity - 2.5 cm 3 to 7. They stand out from others in that when you use 70-80% of capacity. This mode of operation provides the unloaded engine idle up a long life. The main requirements for it - a stable operation at medium speed (9-10 K) and good acceleration.

Production of engines for the flight model is most suitable 'Flight'. In the Central Sports Club, a special aerobatic engine 'Acrobat' (with a working volume of 7 cm 3 ), which withstood the most severe test for models of the leading athletes. On high-speed (and timer) models, the engine put in the most difficult conditions, because it works at maximum capacity. Creating a production engine for this class of models - extremely complicated matter.

Suffice it to say that at all, without exception, all the world championships are the athletes or the engines of their own design, or serial samples subjected to a serious fine-tuning. Recently, in connection with the appearance of resonant devices the problem of creating high-speed engine rose especially sharply.

No less a challenge than making the engine was its docking with the cavity and the duct system supply. If successful mating power engine speed increases up to a very impressive figure - about 1 liter. Liter (per 1 liter of working volume) capacity of the car 'Volga' is only 28 liters. With., while the engine speed model, it is up to 400 liters. When you create a high-speed motor is necessary to solve many other problems: the selection of materials to ensure minimal friction, providing a perfect gas dynamics of the operating cycle, the selection of propellers, etc.

Some of our leading role in the creation of high-speed engine owned by an athlete from Leningrad V. The greatest success he achieved at the last World Cup. Speaking on the engine of his own design, Natalenko took seventh place with a score of 241 km / hour. Took third place American athlete Roger Theobald was ahead of his only 2 km, showing 243 km / hour.

The creation of the engines in our country are engaged in many enthusiasts. Particularly successful is doing in Kiev sports-racers - and Krasnorutskogo Babichev. At the May training camp before the championship of Europe, speaking on the new engine of their own design, they confidently took first place with a very good result - 4 min. How do you down load or print out the drawings for this engine, I use Opera and saved the file and tried various types of files, unforturnatley none of them worked, nor did it print straight of the internet file, just blank pages with a header. John Holloway. PS Ramon, still have not started the Bolaero18, first because Ive been busy and second I dropped it and snapped of the carby needle, fixed that and whent back to making the furnace so that I can cast the crankcase for the David Anderson satilite engine (DA 1cc) every thing else is made, just need more time and energy for the crank case. Hi Jomac Open the page with the drawings, position your cursor over one of the images (there are actually 3 drawings), right mouse click and then select' save image' from the drop down menu.

I've saved them to my desktop by this route, and I can then open the saved images in 'Irfanview' - no doubt other similar image viewers will work. Using the zoom function in Irfanview I can see all the dimensions etc and I think enough detail to work from. All the above is using Opera as the browser and Windows 7 as the operating system on a Toshiba netbook on a slow connection.

Took less than 5 minutes end to end, writing this took longer! Keith Edited By Keith Long on 12:08:16. After my last post I began to wonder just when I first owned a commercially available rear exhaust motor and thoughts led to a Rossi 15 complete with pipe bought from Michaels Models in the late seventies but then I remembered there was an engine much earlier than that and only just a year or so after this Russian article was published- around '70/'71. This engine was an OPS 60 water cooled RC motor which I fitted to a power boat but that was, at that time, quite a rare beast.

It was extremely powerful with a rev band to match -20 odd thousand as I recall - it certainly used to sing when the pipe came in and the boat would noticeably leap forward in the water. Perhaps small beer by todays standards - the speed model on show at Ally Pally on the BMFA stand - world speed record holder in it's class I believe - had a specially prepared 2.5cc engine rated at 40,000rpm. Richard and others, Hi, I right clicked the image, then save as, all files, I then opened Open Office ORG, which is better than Microsoft works, as it is updated all the time, also its FREE!!!, the image came up in the draw section of this program, I did a motor a few years ago, doing it this way, and then opened and exported into a CAD program, and modified the drawing, to suit.

Unfortunatley I have forgotten what I did back then, as now Turbo cad needs a filter (which is hard for me to do), Draftsight also fails to recognize the file, So there are some clever people out there who can do this properly, maybe they can help us out.???? I can save and modify the drawing with Open Office, but need more time to read the help files, so that it is workable.

John Holloway. There are various programs which convert bitmaps to Vector graphics.

Most are expensive being aimed at the professional market, but a good, free, open source program (steep learning curve though) is Inkscape which is available. You can also use (also free) to trace the bitmap for a scalable vector. Once you have a scalable vector diagram from the bitmap you should be able to store it in a suitable format for your CAD program. Stereochemistry Of Organic Compounds Ernest L Eliel Pdf Free Download.

Make sure that Open Office is saving the file as a jpeg as OO has it's own terminology for some file types.

Ok this started to be talked about in another thread, so to stop me from taking it off topic too much I thought I would start a new thread, now me being dislexic and dyspraxic learning from books and written bits is not my strong point so you might need to bare with me while I try and get my head around this. From reading other threads I have worked out that it is possible to cut metric threads, with a quick change gear box on a Myford super 7, by just changing one gear, this gear being the 24 tooth input gear on the tumbler shaft.

So my first question is, is this the gear that is being discussed? As by my understanding the input gear would be the one at the top, not the one with the arrow, but the only gear I can find with 24 teeth is that gear. So am i somewhere in the ball park, or have I got this whole thing twisted in my mind and I am going off on a random tangent? Allan Yes that's the one- you don't get a 'perfect' thread pitch for every thread, but with a couple of other gears (to swap into that same place) you can do all the metric threads with more than sufficient accuracy for most needs. You do need to rotate the banjo to get the correct mesh, and if you use a small gear on that stud some lathes don't have quite enough adjustment.

Allan, ​So that you can follow the logic from the spindle down, the spindle gear will be 30 teeth, the fibre gears are those that do the reversing which in turn mesh into the next gear down, also 30 teeth on the tumbler shaft. ​So far the gearing ratio from spindle to the second 30 tooth gear on the tumbler shaft is unchanged. The 24 tooth gear [the one you arrowed], which is coupled to the second 30 tooth gear is what Myford term the mandrel gear and that is the main drive gear down the chain to the gearbox. ​You will have found tables that include gears with 33 and 34 teeth to put in place of that, which together with gearbox changes, will give metric ratios in more than sufficient accuracy. ​I'm sorry to contradict RichardN, the restriction on banjo movements comes with fitting gears of 35 teeth or more, NOT the smaller gears. The clamp slot at the bottom of the banjo limits the movement Regards ​Brian thanks both for your replies.

So just getting this into my head, to alter that 24 tooth gear, I need to adjust this bit there dosnt seem much movement to drop the gears down, but if it is only another 10 teeth it might just do it, so I need to get the 33 and 34 tooth gears which are about £10 each which is better than the £250 for the conversion kit, the next thing is without me going hunting through the net for something that I don't exactly know what I am looking at, where about's would I find a chart for the settings, using the 33 or 34 tooth gears, and what pitches the QC gearbox will cut. Sorry if I am sounding thick on this, once I can get it all working and can play it will all become clear, but until then and it is all theory my brain dosnt like it too much.

Allan Allan, John Stevenson used to sell a pair of 33 & 34 T gears from his online shop, but had to close the shop, then sadly his wife passed away; don't know if he re-opened it. (Hope I remember it right John) Below is the gear chart he supplied with the 33/34T pair. (including typo on the BA chart). Hope he doesn't object to it being reproduced. Edited By Robbo on 14:50:49 Thanks for that, I have just looked at his site, but it looks as if everything is at?0.00 so looks as if it's closed, have sent him a PM and will see if he gets back to me. Allan Moderator 64 articles John's away for the weekend so he may not be able to get back to you for a day or two.

Neil Thanks Neil, I am in no major hurry as I don't need it right now, I am just experimenting with different things for when I do need them. Allan Robbo beat me to it, but I'll post this anyway - it's the table I use: Moderator OK, as Neil says I'm away for a long weekend but I'll get back to Allen and anyone else who pm's me on Monday night when I get back but from memory I'm carrying about 70 odd sets of steel gears. Made in the UK and even using the genuine Nottingham Myford cutters to do the job with. I'll shortly be adding more to the ranges as well. Hi John, not a problem, enjoy your weekend away. Posted by Otley on 15:21:30: Robbo beat me to it, but I'll post this anyway - it's the table I use: How do the top 3 rows read, The Metric and BA is clear, but haven't sussed the top three rows. Steve I could be wrong but in my second picture, the gear just above the arrow if the gear you flip over between fine feed and screw cutting, in the position it's in at the moment it is set for fine feed, so for turning to diameter with a auto feed, the top three rows corresponding with the settings on the gearbox showing what the TPI would be for say C8 is 500 something TPI so a very fine finish, then I think it was A3 is about 90TPI which wouldn't be as good a finish, but would cut a lot faster.

This is as my understanding is, but as this is my thread of asking stupid questions I could be wrong 😂😂 Allan Hello Steve, ​Surely they are the tpi you can expect by using fine feed [as it says] with a standard mandrel gear of 24 teeth Regards Brian Edited By Brian Wood on 18:35:01 There's always something to trip you up. I've spent a while over the last few days making a 33 and a 34 T gear, also a 24 and a 26. Gone to play with cutting metric threads with then this morning, and fallen foul of the fact that the gear A on my S7 is a 30/12 couple. Of course the answer in in the archive.

I quote (from a thread dated 27.2.2012 called 'Myford Quick Change Gearbox':- Mike, You are not getting the full story. So before you get in too deep. In no particular order: 1.

The last gearbox of the type you have was Serial No. QC (for Quick Change) 2500. QC2501 was the first 'modern' one.

It is thought that many early gearboxes were retrofitted in the factory with hardened cogs, but no records were kept. Also quite possibly from some point before QC1950, hardened cogs were fitted as standard. The leadscrew on your none-gearboxed machine has quite probably got a different plain diameter at the headstock end, as in smaller than what you require. It must fit the hole in the gearbox casting closely for obvious reasons. It is somewhat trickier to align the gearbox with the leadscrew, but it must be done and done carefully or the hole in the casting for the leadscrew becomes worn.

The 'modern' box is almost self aligning as it goes right through, but it still needs doing. To align the gearbox properly, you need a spacer strip between the gearbox and the top two fixing screws along the bed shear. It is just a flat strip with two holes in, but I have no idea what the thickness is.

That is a left over from the earlier ML7 fitting. Your gearbox runs at half the speed of the 'modern box' to cut the same thread. That is to say, your output gearing at the right hand end is 1:1, whereas the modern box is 2:1 at the left hand end. There is no chance of you altering the principle to be the same as a modern one as you won't make it fit! A consequence of this that you also need a 12/30T FINE FEED TUMBLER GEAR A1974A/1 as it is termed on the Myford/RDG website to drive the standard fixed quadrant geartrain.

The modern box uses 24T/30T and hence does not have to be a combo cog. Do not try and use the Myford modern screw cutting details as in a later manual as you will end up with a times 2 factor as above, but you can do far better none imperial threads than the earlier Myford tables. The guts of the boxes are identical and interchangeable apart from the shaft differences of course Think that's it.

You have some way to go to get going. Dennis And I do indeed have the older gearbox on a S7 of the same vintage. So, I have discovered that the banjo won't drop far enough to allow me to fit my new 33 and 34 gears, I'll have to modify the banjo slot to do so. Is this opening another can of worms?

Having got the gears to mesh, I can in principle adjust the top lever and side lever selections to choose half the TPI the table above indicates, as my gearbox will be running at twice speed. I've yet to think this through, but I doubt I'm the first - does this work? Rgds as ever to all, and thanks for the help. Simon edited to remove a yellow winky face I didn't ask for.

Edited By Simon Williams 3 on 13:08:11 Hello Simon, ​My server will no longer allow me to attach pictures or diagrams to postings, if fact it interfers with the process of posting as well. ​So, because of that, I can't post a simple drawing for a modification that WILL allow you to lower the banjo on your S7. It takes little to make and allows all manner of thread pitches to be cut into the bargain. ​ Send me a PM please with your email address and I can send you the drawing that way ​Regards Brian Brian - Have sent you a PM as suggested, and look forward to hearing further.

Thx Simon I recently bought the two gears 33 & 34 from John and he said he more. I notice some one has post the chart as well.John I have just ordered the gears off John, and my thread counter is now fitted, now to start playing. Allan Moderator At the risk of stealing Brian's thunder, may I pass a link on to his new book. Gearing of lathes for Screwcutting by Brian Wood, published by Crowood Press. I recently picked a copy up from ARC and it makes for very interesting reading and a lot of work has gone into this publication.

However from Crowoods page you can actually see part of this book and the modification that Brian talks about.