BMW 325i Sedan (2006) BMW 325xi Sedan/Wagon (2006) BMW 328i Coupe/Conv (2007-13) BMW 328i xDrive Coupe (2009-13) BMW 328i xDrive Sedan (2009-11) BMW 328i xDrive Wagon (2009-12) BMW 328i/xi Sedan (2007-11) BMW 328i/xi Wagon (2007-12) BMW 328xi Coupe (2007-13) BMW 330i/xi Sedan (2006) BMW 335d/i/xi Sedan (2007-11) BMW 335i xDrive Coupe (2009-13) BMW 335i xDrive Sedan (2009-11) BMW 335i/is Coupe/Conv (2007-13) BMW 335xi Coupe (2007-13) Parts Required: Fuel pump, fuel pump sealing O-ring Hot Tip: Check and clear fault codes when done using a BMW scan tool. Performance Gain: Restoring engine performance Complementary Modification: Replace fuel pump if faulty. Need to buy parts for this project?

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A faulty fuel pump can cause poor engine performance and hard starting problems. When they fail completely you may be left with an engine that doesn't start. If you suspect your fuel pump has failed, you can confirm the fuel pump is received the correct voltage when commanded ON by the fuel pump control module using a digital volt ohm meter (DVOM). If the correct voltage is present, but pump does not activate, it is likely faulty. Use the DVOM in conjunction with a wiring diagram to determine the correct terminals for testing. You can access the fuel pump electrical connector and terminals under the rear seat cushion, below an access panel.

Game Over Dealing With Bullies On The Job there. On E90 models, a fuel pump control module is used in place on the fuel pump relay. The fuel pump module can be activated for testing using a BMW scan tool, if you do not have access to a BMW scan tool, attempting to start the vehicle will also activate the fuel pump control module, the module will send control voltage to the pump. Instead of seeing what we are used to, battery volts supplied to the fuel pump, we now see a voltage dependent on fuel supply demand from the DME. When testing, I usually see about 10 volts being sent to the fuel pump. In this tech article, I will go over how to test fuel pressure and volume. You will need an assistant to press the Start Stop button during the testing procedures.

The fuel pump is located in the right side of the fuel tank. Figure 3 Next, start or attempt to start engine. Fuel pressure should be 5 bar (72.5 psi).

Once you test pressure. Recharge fuel system by cycling key or running fuel pump, note fuel pressure. Then allow fuel system to sit under pressure for 15 minutes. Pressure should drop no more than 0.5 bar in that time period. If it drops you could have a faulty fuel pump check valve or a leak in the fuel system. Electrical testing Working in rear of vehicle interior; grab corner of rear seat cushion and pull up to detach locking tabs. .

Figure 9 I suggest load testing using a test light and a DVOM. Connect DVOM across fuel pump electrical connector terminals and take a reading, it should read battery volts when key is turned ON. Then connect an incandescent bulb style test light to battery ground and touch the test light probe tip the positive wire you are backprobing with DVOM.

Your reading should hold steady, a maximum drop in voltage of 0.5 volts is OK. Anything more is a problem. In this photo, voltage head steady at current fuel pump demand. . This site was designed and produced solely by Pelican Parts.

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A fuel pump ready to install in your car. Photo Without a fuel pump, your engine will quickly starve. A bad fuel pump will kill things quickly. You can easily replace and install an electric fuel pump. This how-to will guide you through the process step by step.

Level of Difficulty: Moderate What You'll Need: • Fire Extinguisher! • Replacement Fuel Pump • New Fuel Line • Open End Wrench Set • Socket Set • • Phillips Head Screwdriver • Large Fuel Catch Container When you're ready to replace your fuel pump, be sure you have safety in mind. Work in an open, well ventilated area, and be sure you have a fire extinguisher close. *Note: If your or truck has an in-tank fuel pump, check out this tutorial on.

You'll need to relieve the fuel pressure before you remove the fuel pump. Photo by Matt Wright, 2007 An electric fuel pump produces high fuel pressure to supply your electronic fuel injection system with plenty of pressurized fuel. The pressure doesn't go away just because you turn the engine off.

You'll need to take steps to release the fuel pressure before you can remove the fuel pump or any associated parts. Here are instructions on how to in one simple step. When you're sure there is no fuel pressure in the fuel lines or fuel pump, you can proceed with the fuel pump removal. You will also need to disconnect the negative terminal to your battery to avoid any sparks.

This fuel pump is insulated in a sleeve. Photo by Matt Wright, 2007 There are two types of electric fuel pump. One type mounts inside the gas tank, the other mounts underneath the car just in front of the fuel tank. If your fuel pump mounts underneath the car, it will be held in by a couple of bolts. You can locate your fuel pump by sliding underneath the car (if you can't fit, you can place the car securely on jack stands) and looking just in front of the gas tank on one side of the car or the other. You can also follow the fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump. The pump will often be in a black insulating sleeve.

Unbolt it and let it drop down slightly. You won't be able to remove it from the sleeve until everything is disconnected. Remove this high pressure fuel pump fitting.

Photo by Matt Wright, 2007 Now that you can clearly see everything, you need to disconnect the fuel lines. If you have an in-tank pump, there will be one line on the top of the pump that needs to be disconnected. If you have an under car pump there will be both a line in and a line out. These are also called the low pressure and high pressure side of the pump. To remove the lines, loosen the hose clamp or fitting that are holding the low pressure side in, then loosen the fitting and remove the line. Be sure to have something on hand to catch the gas that leaks from the lines so that it doesn't splash the floor and create a fire hazard.

Disconnect the fuel pump wiring. Photo by Matt Wright, 2007 The last step in removing your fuel pump is disconnecting the wires that power the pump. There will be two wires, one is positive, the other ground. It's a good idea to make a note of which is which. What seems obvious while you're taking it off can be baffling when it's time to put it all back. The wires will be held on by plugs, screws, or really small bolts.

With everything disconnected, you're ready to remove the pump. As the saying goes, installation is the reverse of removal, so go ahead!