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Agriculture Center. University Station. Baton Rouge, Louisiana. William Gibbs Eden. Department of Zoology. Auburn University. Auburn, Alabama. Department of Zoology. Eastern Illinois University. Charleston, Illinois. Entomology Section. Research Lab. Canada Department of Agriculture. Seaport codes around the World - IATA 3 Letter Sea Port Codes.

You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org Title: America, Volume 6 (of 6) Author: Joel Cook Release Date: June 4, 2013 [EBook #42872] Language: English Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 *** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AMERICA, VOLUME 6 (OF 6) *** Produced by Melissa McDaniel and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive). Transcriber's Note: Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation in the original document have been preserved.

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MERRILL AND BAKER New York London THIS EDITION ARTISTIQUE OF THE WORLD'S FAMOUS PLACES AND PEOPLES IS LIMITED TO ONE THOUSAND NUMBERED AND REGISTERED COPIES, OF WHICH THIS COPY IS NO. 205 Copyright, Henry T. Coates & Co., 1900 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS VOLUME VI PAGE Pack Train on the Skaguay Trail, Alaska Tyler-Davidson Fountain, Cincinnati, Ohio Bridge Crossing the Mississippi at St.

Louis Cloister of Mission, San Juan Capistrano Gateway, Garden of the Gods, Colorado Sitka, Alaska, from the Sea XIX. FROM THE OHIO TO THE GULF. Tyler-Davidson Fountain, Cincinnati, O. CINCINNATI TO LOUISVILLE.

North Bend on the Ohio River, fifteen miles from Cincinnati, was the home of General William Henry Harrison, and upon a commanding hill is his tomb, a modest structure of brick. The family mansion built in 1814, to which he brought his bride, is still preserved, and in it were born his son John Scott Harrison and his grandson, President Benjamin Harrison. To the westward the Great Miami River flows in at the boundary between Ohio and Indiana. Some distance farther down, at Carrolton, is the mouth of the Kentucky River, which named the 'Blue Grass State,' a beautiful stream, having upon its banks, sixty miles south of the Ohio, the Kentucky capital, Frankfort. The name of this river comes from the Iroquois word Kentake, meaning 'among the meadows,' in allusion to a large and almost treeless tract in the southern part of the State from which the river flows, called by the pioneers 'the Barrens.' To this region first came the famous hunter Daniel Boone, who had been born in Berks County, Pennsylvania, in 1735, but went in early life to North Carolina.

In 1769, being of a roving disposition, he crossed the mountains with five companions and penetrated the forests of Kentucky, the first white men who trod them. He was captured by the Indians, but escaped, returning to North Carolina after wandering and hunting through Kentucky over a year. He finally moved with some others, all taking their families, into Kentucky in 1773, settling on the upper Kentucky River, and building a defensive fort there at Boonesborough in 1775.

The Indians repeatedly attacked the place and were repulsed, but finally, in 1778, they captured Boone, taking him northward to Detroit. Again he escaped, returning later in the year, having another combat with the Indians at his fort and defeating them. For seventeen years afterwards he hunted in Kentucky, and his name and exploits became a household word; but there was a large migration into the region from Virginia and elsewhere, and the increased population was crowding the old hunter too much, so he went west in 1795 to Missouri, settling beyond St. He had received large land grants in both States, and had various legal conflicts, losing much of his property, but he lived in Missouri the remainder of his life, dying there on his farm in 1820 at the age of eighty-five. Being the founder of Kentucky, that State in 1845, as the result of a popular movement, brought back the remains of the old hunter, and they were interred near Frankfort, alongside the river he loved so well. The Ohio River flows westward past Madison, a thriving manufacturing town on the Indiana bank, and then sweeps around a grand curve to the south in its approach to the Kentucky metropolis, Louisville. The view of Louisville and Jeffersonville, opposite in Indiana, is very fine, as the visitor comes towards them down the river.

The Ohio is a mile wide, and the Kentucky hills which lined it above, here recede from the bank, and do not come out to it again for twenty miles, leaving an almost level plain several miles in width, and elevated some distance above the water, upon which Louisville is built, spreading along the shore for eight miles in a graceful crescent. The rapids at the lower end of the city cover the whole width of the river, and go down twenty-six feet in two miles, making a series of foaming cascades in ordinary stages of water, but being almost entirely obliterated in times of freshet, when the steamboats can pass down them. A long canal cut through the rocks provides safe navigation around them. An expedition of thirteen families of Virginia, under Colonel George Rogers Clarke, floated down the Ohio on flatboats in 1778, and halting at the falls, settled there, at first on an island, but afterwards on the southern shore. This began the town which in 1780 was named by the Virginia Legislature in honor of the French King Louis XVI., who was then actively aiding the American Revolution. The Ohio River steamboating began the city's rapid growth, which was further swelled by the later development of railway traffic, and it now has two hundred and fifty thousand population.

There is a large southern trade in provisions and supplies, and it is probably the greatest leaf-tobacco market in the world, being also the distributing depot for the Kentucky whiskies. There are, besides, other prominent branches of manufacture. Its foliage-lined and lawn-bordered streets in the residential section are very attractive and a notable feature. The chief public buildings are the Court House and the City Hall, the former adorned by a statue of the Kentucky statesman Henry Clay. Its great disaster was a frightful tornado, which swept a path of desolation through the heart of the city in March, 1900, killing seventy-six persons and destroying property estimated at $3,000,000. Its most famous citizen was George D.

Prentice, poet, editor and politician, whose monument, a Grecian canopy of marble, is in Cave Hill Cemetery, prettily laid out on the hills to the eastward. The city has an environment of pleasant parks, and three fine bridges span the Ohio in front, crossing to the suburban towns of Jeffersonville and New Albany over on the Indiana shore.

Five miles east of Louisville lived General Zachary Taylor, old 'Rough and Ready,' who commanded the army of the United States in the conquest of Mexico, and died while President in 1850. He is buried near his old home. LOUISVILLE TO NASHVILLE.

Southward from Louisville runs the railroad to Nashville, and proceeding along it, Green River is reached, which, flowing northwest, falls into the Ohio near Evansville. At the Green River crossing were fought the initial skirmishes of the Civil War, in various conflicts between the western armies of Generals Buell and Bragg in 1862. Farther southwestward is Bowling Green, now a quiet agricultural town, but then a location at the crossing of Barren River of great strategic importance, it having been occupied and strongly fortified by the Confederates in 1861, to defend the approach to Nashville. But after the capture of Forts Henry and Donelson in February, 1862, the Confederates being outflanked abandoned the town, retiring southward. Between these places, and adjoining Green River, about ninety miles south of Louisville, is the famous Mammoth Cave of Kentucky. This is the largest known cavern in the world, extending for a distance of nine or ten miles, the various avenues that have been explored having a total length approximating two hundred miles. The carboniferous limestones of Kentucky, in which the cave is located, occupy an area of eight thousand square miles, and the geologists estimate that there are probably a hundred thousand miles of open caverns beneath this surface.

There is a hotel near the cave entrance, and it has several thousand visitors annually. Its mouth is reached by passing down a rocky ravine through the forest, and is a sort of funnel-shaped opening about a hundred feet in diameter at the top, with steep walls fifty feet high. A hunter accidentally discovered the cave in 1809, and for years afterwards it was entered chiefly to obtain nitre for the manufacture of gunpowder, especially during the War of 1812, the nitre being found in deposits on the cave floor, mainly near the entrance, and owing its origin to the accumulation of animal remains, mostly of bats, in which the cave abounds. It subsequently became a resort for sight-seers, and yields its owners a good revenue. Upon entering the cave, the first impression is made by a chaos of limestone formations, moist with water oozing from above, and then is immediately felt what is known as 'the breath' of the cave. It has pure air and an even temperature of 52° to 56°, and this is maintained all the year round.

In summer the relatively cooler air flows out of the entrance, while in winter the colder air outside is drawn in, and this makes the movement of 'the breath,' at once apparent from the difference of temperature and currents of wind when passing the entrance. For nearly a half-mile within are seen the remains of the Government nitre-works, the vats being undecayed, while ruts of cart-wheels are traceable on the floor. The Rotunda is then entered, a hall seventy-five feet high and one hundred and sixty feet across, beginning the main cave, and out of which avenues lead in various directions.

The vast interior beyond contains a succession of wonderful avenues, chambers, domes, abysses, grottoes, lakes, rivers, cataracts, stalactites, etc., remarkable for size and extraordinary appearance, though they are neither as brilliant nor as beautiful as similar things seen in some other caves. But their gigantic scale is elsewhere unsurpassed. There are eyeless fish and crawfish, and a prolific population of bats. In the subterranean explorations there are two routes usually followed, a short one of eight miles and another of twenty miles. Various appropriate names are given the different parts of the cave, and curious and interesting legends are told about them, one of the tales being of the 'Bridal Chamber,' which got its name because an ingenious maiden who had promised at the deathbed of her mother she would not marry any man on the face of the earth, came down here and was wedded. Bayard Taylor wrote of this Mammoth Cave, 'No description can do justice to its sublimity, or present a fair picture of its manifold wonders; it is the greatest natural curiosity I have ever visited, Niagara not excepted.' Seventy miles south of Bowling Green, at the Cumberland River, and occupying the hills adjoining both banks, is Nashville, the capital and largest city of Tennessee, having eighty thousand population.

It is in an admirable situation, and is known as the 'Rock City,' its most prominent building, the State Capitol, standing upon an abrupt yet symmetrical hill, rising like an Indian mound and overlooking the entire city, its high tower seen from afar. In the grounds are the tomb of President James K. Polk, who died in 1849 and whose home was in Nashville, and a fine bronze equestrian statue of General Andrew Jackson, the most famous Tennesseean, whose residence, the Hermitage, was eleven miles to the eastward. Nashville has considerable manufactures, but is chiefly known as the leading educational city of the South.

The most prominent institution is the Vanderbilt University, attended by eight hundred students and endowed by Commodore Cornelius Vanderbilt with $1,000,000, his colossal statue, unveiled in 1897, standing on the campus. The University of Nashville, originally begun by charter of the North Carolina Legislature as an Academy in 1785, has four hundred students in its Normal Department, which trains teachers for Southern schools, and as many more in its Medical Department. There are also the Fisk University, Roger Williams University, and Central Tennessee College, all endowments for colored students and having about thirteen hundred in attendance. The city has various other educational institutions and public buildings, and in the southwestern suburbs is the famous Belle Meade stock-farm, where was bred Iroquois, the only American horse that was a winner of the English Derby. Nashville was in the midst of the Civil War, and four miles to the northward is a National Cemetery with over sixteen thousand soldiers' graves. The great battle of Nashville was fought just south of the city December 15 and 16, 1864. In November of that year General Sherman had captured Atlanta, Georgia, to the southeast, and the Confederate General Hood, who had lost it, marched in Sherman's rear northward and began an invasion of Tennessee, advancing upon Nashville and forcing General George H.

Thomas to fall back within its fortifications south of the Cumberland. For two weeks little was done, the weather preventing, but Thomas suddenly attacked, and in the two days' battle worsted Hood and put his army to flight, pursuing them over the boundary into Alabama, where the remnants escaped across the Tennessee River, a demoralized rabble. Hood's army being thus destroyed, Sherman, who had been waiting at Atlanta, began his famous march to the sea. The Ohio River below Louisville passes Evansville, the chief town of southwestern Indiana, having sixty thousand people and a large trade. A short distance beyond, the Wabash River flows in, the boundary between Indiana and Illinois.

Shawneetown in southern Illinois and Paducah in Kentucky are passed, and the Ohio River finally discharges its waters into the Mississippi at Cairo, the southern extremity of Illinois, the town being built upon a long, low peninsula protruding between the two great rivers, around which extensive levees have been constructed to prevent inundation. The place has about twelve thousand people and considerable manufacturing industry. All about is an extensive prairie land, which in times of great spring freshets is generally overflowed.

CUMBERLAND AND TENNESSEE RIVERS. A large portion of the waters brought down by the Ohio come from its two great affluents flowing in almost alongside each other on the southern bank, just above Paducah, the Cumberland and Tennessee Rivers.

The Cumberland has its sources in the Cumberland Mountains, the eastern boundary of Kentucky, and flows for six hundred and fifty miles, the whole length of that State, making a wide, sweeping circuit down into Tennessee, where it passes Nashville, at the head of steamboat navigation, two hundred miles from its mouth. For twenty miles above their mouths, in their lower courses, these two great rivers are rarely more than three miles apart. The Tennessee is twelve hundred miles long from its head stream, the Holston River, rising in the mountains east of Kentucky and Tennessee. It comes through East Tennessee, makes a great bend down into Alabama, and then coming up northward flows through Tennessee and Kentucky to the Ohio. It is navigable for nearly three hundred miles to the Mussel Shoals at Florence, Alabama, where canals and locks have improved the navigation for twenty miles past the shoals, and it can also be navigated for eight hundred miles above, excepting at very low stages of water. Its name signifies 'the river of the Great Bend,' and it was also called in early times the 'river of the Cherokees.' It was by the capture of Fort Donelson, near the mouth of the Cumberland River, that General Grant gained his early fame in the Civil War.

The Confederates erected strong defensive works on the two rivers in order to prevent an invasion of Western Kentucky and Tennessee. The places selected were about forty miles south of the Ohio—Fort Henry being built on the eastern bank of the Tennessee River and Fort Donelson on the western bank of the Cumberland, twelve miles apart, and connected by a direct road. A combined land and naval attack was made on these forts in February, 1862, under command of General Grant and Commodore Foote. Fort Henry was easily captured by Foote's gunboats on February 6th after an hour's action, most of the garrison retreating across the neck of land to Fort Donelson. Grant then invested Fort Donelson, being reinforced until he had twenty-seven thousand men, and he attacked so vigorously that after a severe battle on the 15th he effected a lodgement in the Confederate lines and severely crippled them. Part of the garrison escaped southward during the night, and in the morning General Buckner, commanding, asked for an armistice and commissioners to arrange a capitulation. To this Grant made his noted reply, 'No terms except unconditional and immediate surrender can be accepted; I propose to move immediately upon your works.'

Having no alternative, Buckner surrendered. The Union army captured fourteen thousand prisoners, a vast amount of small arms and stores, and sixty-five cannon. Almost immediately afterwards the Confederates practically abandoned Western Kentucky and Tennessee, and Grant moved his army up the Tennessee River, and by the middle of March it was encamped to the westward and along the banks, near the southern Tennessee border, the lines extending several miles from Shiloh Church to Pittsburg Landing. The Confederates under A. Johnston and Beauregard were at Corinth, Mississippi, about twenty miles to the southwest. The Union plan was that General Buell, who was coming southwestward from Nashville, should join Grant, and then an advance southward be made.

The Confederates, having learned of the plan, early in April decided to attack Grant before Buell could join him, and on the morning of the 6th the onslaught began, the Union army being surprised. This was the great battle of Shiloh, in which the Union forces were pushed back with heavy loss on the first day.

Buell arrived, however, crossing the Tennessee that night and joining, so that next day, after a stubborn battle, Grant recovered his position, and the Confederates retreated to Corinth. In this battle the losses were about twenty-five thousand killed, wounded and missing, including three thousand Union prisoners taken. The Cumberland Mountains, dividing Virginia from Kentucky, and extending farther southwest to separate East from Middle Tennessee, are the main watershed between the upper waters and sources of the two great rivers. This range is an elevated plateau rising about a thousand feet above the neighboring country and two thousand feet above the sea, the flat top being in some parts fifty miles across.

On both sides the cliffs are precipitous, being much notched on the western declivities. Pioneer hunters coming out of Virginia discovered these mountains and the river in 1748, giving them the name of the Duke of Cumberland, the hero of Culloden, then the prominent military leader of England. These explorers came through the remarkable notch cut part way down in the range on the Kentucky-Tennessee boundary, just at the western extremity of Virginia,—the Cumberland Gap. This cleft, five hundred feet deep, is in some places only wide enough for a road, and extends for six miles through the ridge. It was for over a century the highway from southwestern Virginia into East Tennessee and southeastern Kentucky, being previously the trail followed by the Cherokees and other Indians in their movements east and west of the mountains. Through it came Daniel Boone and his companions from North Carolina into Kentucky, and the pass naturally became a great battleground of the Civil War.

It is now utilized as the route for a branch of the Southern Railway from East Tennessee into Kentucky, traversing the Gap at about sixteen hundred feet elevation. In one place this road passes through a tunnel of over a half-mile, beginning in Tennessee, going under the corner of Virginia, and coming out in Kentucky. Iron is in abundance all about the Gap.

During the war it was fortified by the Confederates, but in June, 1862, they were compelled to abandon it, and the Union troops took possession, being in turn forced out the following September. In September, 1863, the Union armies besieged and captured it, holding the Gap till the end of the war.

The great curiosity of Cumberland Gap was the Pinnacle Rock, overhanging the narrow pass in a commanding position. This huge rock, weighing hundreds of tons, fell on Christmas night, 1899, awakening the village at the Gap as if by an earthquake, though no one was injured. CHATTANOOGA AND ITS BATTLES.

The great Allegheny ranges, stretching from northeast to southwest, attain their highest altitude in western North Carolina. They come down southwestward out of Virginia in the Blue Ridge and other ranges, forming a high plateau, having the Blue Ridge on the eastern side, and on the western, forming the boundary between North Carolina and Tennessee, the chain known in various parts as the Stony, Iron, Great Smoky and Unaka Mountains, while beyond, to the northwest, the Cumberland Mountains extend in a parallel range through East Tennessee. There are also various cross-chains, among them the Black Mountains.

In these ranges are eighty-two peaks that rise above five thousand feet and forty-three exceeding six thousand feet. The highest mountains of the Blue Ridge in North Carolina are the Grandfather and the Pinnacle, rising nearly six thousand feet. In the Great Smoky Mountains, Clingman's Dome is sixty-six hundred and sixty feet high and Mount Guyot sixty-six hundred and thirty-six feet. The highest peak of all is in the Black Mountains, and it is the highest east of the Rockies, Mount Mitchell rising sixty-six hundred and eighty-eight feet. Between and among these ranges are the sources of Tennessee River, in the Clinch River, the Holston and its North Fork, and the French Broad, their head streams coming westward out of Virginia and North Carolina through the mountain passes. The extensive mountain region they drain in North Carolina and East Tennessee is a most attractive district, noted as a health resort, and famous for the sturdy independence of its people, while along the Tennessee and upon the mountains near it were fought some of the greatest battles of the Civil War.

Upon the Tennessee River, at the head of navigation, and near the junction-point of the three States, Tennessee, Alabama and Georgia, is Chattanooga, the Indian 'crow's nest,' now a busy manufacturing city and a great railroad centre, served by no less than nine different roads diverging in all directions, the iron, coal and timber of the neighboring country having given it an impetus that has brought a population of fifty thousand. This city has had all its development since the Civil War, and is the seat of Grant University of the Methodist Church, attended by six hundred students. It borders the river winding along the base of the Missionary Ridge and the famous Lookout Mountain. The battlefields upon them have been placed in control of a Government Commission, who have laid out the Chickamauga and Chattanooga Military Park, restoring all the roads used by troops during the battles, and marking the points of interest and the locations of regiments and batteries by tablets and monuments. There are sixty miles of driveways on the field, which embraces over five thousand acres of woodland cleared of underbrush and fifteen hundred acres of open ground. Here have been identified and accurately laid down the brigade lines of battle of seven distinct and successive engagements in the series of terrific contests that were fought, all of them being plainly marked.

The fighting positions of batteries for both sides have been indicated by the location of guns of the same pattern as those used in the engagement. There are thus marked thirty-five battery positions on one side and thirty-three on the other, mounting over two hundred guns.

The restoration to the conditions existing at the times of the battles is almost complete, both the Northern and Southern States that had troops engaged, actively aiding the historical labor. Lookout Mountain rises to the south of the city, its summit being over twenty-one hundred feet high, and it commands a superb view, extending over seven States. Inclined-plane railways ascend it, and there is a hotel at the top, and also another railway along the crest of the ridge. Upon the summit of this mountain, which is almost a plateau, the boundaries of the three States come together, and it overlooks to the northward the plain of Chattanooga and the windings of Tennessee River, traced far to the southwest along the base of the ridge into Alabama.

The favorite post for the magnificent view from the mountain top is Point Rock, a jutting promontory of massive stone reared on high, and overhanging like a balcony the deep valley. Far beneath, the river in its grand and graceful sweeping curves forms the famous Moccasin Bend, which almost enfolds the city of Chattanooga, and then spreads beyond, fringed with forest and field, a waving silvery gleaming thread, until lost to view. Beyond Missionary Ridge is the battlefield of Chickamauga, the 'river of death,' a stream flowing up from Georgia into the Tennessee, about twelve miles east of Chattanooga. General Rosecrans commanded the Union forces holding Chattanooga in 1863 and General Bragg the opposing Confederates.

The conflict began September 19th by the Confederates attempting to turn Rosecrans' left wing and get possession of the roads leading into Chattanooga, and it continued fiercely for two days, when the Union forces withdrew, and the result was a nominal victory for the Confederates on the field, although Chattanooga and East Tennessee, the prize for which the battle was fought, remained in possession of the Union forces. This was one of the bloodiest battles of the war, thirty-four thousand being killed and wounded on both sides out of one hundred and twelve thousand engaged. Immediately after the battle, Rosecrans withdrew behind the fortifications of Chattanooga, while Bragg moved up and occupied positions upon Missionary Ridge and Lookout Mountain, extending his flanks to the Tennessee River above and below the city. He cut the communications westward, and the Union army was practically blockaded and in danger of starvation. Rosecrans was relieved and Grant took command. He ordered Sherman to join him, coming up from the southwest, and by the close of October had opened communication along the Tennessee River and secured ample supplies.

Bragg, who felt he was in strong position, detached Longstreet with a large force to go northeast in November and attack Burnside at Knoxville. Sherman's army joined Grant on the 23d, and next day the battle began on Lookout Mountain, continuing on the 25th on Missionary Ridge, and Bragg was driven out of his position and his army pursued in disorder through the mountains, over six thousand prisoners being taken. As the Union forces ascended Lookout Mountain in the mist, this has been called the 'Battle above the Clouds.' Burnside was afterwards relieved at Knoxville, and these decisive victories, which broke the Confederate power in Tennessee, resulted in Grant being made a Lieutenant General the next year and placed in command of all the armies of the United States. At the head of navigation for steamboats on the Tennessee River is Knoxville, the chief city of East Tennessee, in a fine location among the foothills of the Clinch Mountains, which are a sort of offshoot of the Cumberland range.

This was the spot where General Knox, then Secretary of War, in the latter part of the eighteenth century made a treaty with the Indians of the upper Tennessee, and the village which grew there was named after him. It is the centre of the Tennessee marble district, shipping hundreds of thousands of tons of this beautiful stone all over the country.

It also has coal and iron and other industries, and a population of over forty thousand. Here are the buildings of the University of Tennessee, with five hundred students, and also an Agricultural College.

Knoxville was the rallying point of Union sentiment in East Tennessee during the Civil War, and its most noted citizen was Parson William G. Brownlow, a Methodist clergyman and political editor, whose caustic articles earned for him the sobriquet of the 'fighting Parson.' He was Governor of Tennessee and Senator after the war, and died in Knoxville in 1877.

The famous Davy Crockett was also a resident of that city. Twelve miles west of Knoxville, at Low's Ferry, Admiral Farragut was born, July 5, 1801, and a marble shaft marking the place was dedicated by Admiral Dewey in May, 1900. A short distance above Knoxville the Tennessee River is formed by the union of the Holston and French Broad Rivers.

Following up the Holston, we come to Morristown, and beyond to Greenville, where, in sight of the railway, are the grave and monument of President Andrew Johnson, who lived there the greater part of his life, and died there in 1875. His residence and the little wooden tailor shop where he worked are still preserved. High mountains are all about, and to the eastward from Johnson City a narrow-gauge railway ascends through the romantic canyon of Doe River, in places fifteen hundred feet deep, up the Roan Mountain to Cranberry. This line is known in the neighborhood, on account of its crookedness, as the 'Cranberry Stem-Winder.' On the summit of Roan Mountain is the Cloudland Hotel, at an elevation of more than sixty-three hundred feet, the highest human habitation east of the Rockies, and having a magnificent view. It is a curious circumstance that the boundary line between Tennessee and North Carolina on the mountain top runs through the hotel, and is painted a broad white band along the dining-room floor, while out of the windows are views for a hundred miles in almost every direction. THE LAND OF THE SKY.

We have come to the famous region in Western North Carolina, the resort for health and pleasure, the 'Land of the Sky,' sought both in winter and summer on account of its pure, bracing atmosphere and equable climate, and where eighty thousand visitors go in a year. Between the Unaka and Great Smoky range of mountains which is the western North Carolina boundary, and the Blue Ridge to the eastward, there is a long and diversified plateau with an average elevation of two thousand feet, stretching two hundred and fifty miles from northeast to southwest, and having a width of about twenty-five miles. Various mountain spurs cross it between the ranges from one towards the other, and numerous rivers rising in the Blue Ridge flow westward over it and break through picturesque gorges in the Great Smoky Mountains to reach the Tennessee River, the most noted of these streams being the French Broad. From any commanding point along the Great Smoky range there may be seen stretching to the east and south a vast sea of ridges, peaks and domes. No single one dominates, but most all of them reach nearly the same altitude, appearing like the waves in a choppy sea, the ranges growing gradually less distinct as they are more distant. The whole region seems to be covered with a mantle of dark forest, excepting an occasional clearing or patch of lighter-colored grass. Very few rocky ledges appear, so that the slopes are smoothed and softened by the generous vegetation.

The atmosphere also tends to the same result, the blue haze, so rarely absent, giving the names both to the Blue Ridge and the Great Smoky Mountains. This haze softens everything and imparts the effect of great distance to peaks but a few miles away. Thus the remarkable atmospheric influence produces more impressive views than are got from greater peaks and longer distances in a clearer air elsewhere. The most elevated peak of the district, Mount Mitchell, rises four hundred and twenty-five feet higher than Mount Washington in the White Mountains. It was named for Professor Elisha Mitchell, who was an early explorer, a native of Connecticut, and Professor in the University of North Carolina, who lost his life during a storm on the mountain in 1857, and is buried at the summit.

From its sides the beautiful Swannanoa River, the Indian 'running water,' flows eighteen miles westward to fall into the French Broad at Asheville, the centre and chief city of this charming region, whose fame has become world-wide. 'Like two cathedral towers these stately pines Uplift their fretted summits tipped with cones; The arch beneath them is not built with stones, Not Art but Nature traced these lovely lines, And carved this graceful arabesque of vines; No organ but the wind here sighs and moans, No sepulchre conceals a martyr's bones, No marble bishop on his tomb reclines. The pavement, carpeted with leaves, Gives back a softened echo to thy tread! The choir is singing; all the birds, In leafy galleries beneath the eaves, Are singing! Listen, ere the sound be fled, And learn there may be worship without words.'

And in garden and grove, all about, there is a wealth of semi-tropical flowers and shrubbery, with their rich perfumes crowned by the delicious orange tree, whereof Hoyt thus pleasantly sings. 'We'll tread the prairie as of old Our fathers sailed the sea, And make the West, as they the East, The homestead of the free!' The Civil War ended all these conflicts, and since then Kansas has been eminently peaceful. It is now the leading State of the corn belt which broadly crosses the middle of the United States. Its vast corn crops make the wealth of the people, and as they may be good or poor, the Kansan is in joy or despair. One year the farmers will be overwhelmed with debt; the next brings an ample crop, and they pay their debts and are in affluence. Thus throbs the pulse as the sunshine and rains may make a corn crop in the State that sometimes exceeds three hundred millions of bushels; and then there are not enough railway cars available to carry away the product.

In a good crop the cornstalks grow to enormous heights, sometimes reaching twenty feet to the surmounting tassel, and a tall man on tip-toe can about touch the ears, while a two-pound ear is a customary weight, with thirty-five ears to a bushel. These vast cornfields, watched year by year and crop after crop by the hard-working wife of a Kansas farmer, caused her to write the touching lyric which has become the Kansas national hymn, Mrs. Allerton's 'Walls of Corn'. 'And how would the wise ones have laughed in scorn Had prophet foretold these walls of corn Whose banners toss in the breeze of morn.' The Kansas River flows into the Missouri at Kansas City, the chief settlement of the Missouri Valley, entirely the growth of the period since the Civil War, through the prodigious development of the railways. There are two cities where the Missouri is crossed by three fine bridges, and having two hundred thousand people, the larger being Kansas City in Missouri, on the southern river bank, and the other adjoining is Kansas City or Wyandotte, the largest city in Kansas, through which the Kansas River flows. The two cities are separated by the State boundary between Kansas and Missouri.

Next to Chicago, this place has the largest stock-yards and packing-house plants, and does an enormous trade in cattle, meats and grain, many railroads radiating in all directions. The site was originally the home of the Wyandotte Indians who were removed here from Ohio in 1843. The town of Wyandotte had a small population prior to the Civil War, but the growth did not begin until after the close of that conflict had stimulated railway building and western colonization, and being on the trail from the Missouri River to the southwest, this gave the first impetus. These cities now have a rapid expansion, and are the greatest railway centres west of the Mississippi River, their lines going to the Gulf of Mexico and the Pacific through sections of country which are rapidly populating and developing vast agricultural and mineral products.

The Missouri River traverses the entire State of Missouri in winding, turbid current from west to east. It passes Jefferson City, the State Capital, having about seven thousand people, and just below receives the Osage River coming up from the southwest. At Chillicothe to the northwest is buried Nelson Kneiss, who composed the music for Thomas Dunn English's popular ballad of Ben Bolt; and at Florida, to the northeast, was born in November, 1835, the humorist, Samuel L. Clemens, Mark Twain. Captain Sellers, who furnished river news to the New Orleans Picayune, had used this nom-de-plume, and dying in 1863, Clemens adopted it.

Twenty miles above St. Louis the Missouri flows into the Mississippi, contributing the greater volume of water to the joint stream, the clear Mississippi waters, pushed over to the eastern bank, refusing for a long distance below to mingle with the turbid flood of the Missouri. THE CITY OF ST. The Mississippi River below the Moline Rapids at Rock Island passes various flourishing cities, including Muscatine and Burlington, the former having considerable trade in timber and food products, while Burlington, a much larger place, spreads back from the bluffs and is a busy railroad city, fronted by a beautiful reach of the river.

About thirty miles below, on the Illinois shore, is Nauvoo, a small town chiefly raising grapes and wine, but formerly one of the leading settlements on the river. This town was originally built by the Mormons under the lead of their prophet, Joseph Smith, in 1838, after they had been driven from various places in New York, Ohio and Missouri. Nauvoo flourished greatly, reaching fifteen thousand population, but dissensions arose and the enmity of the growing population elsewhere caused riots, in one of which, in 1844, Smith, who had been arrested and taken to jail at Carthage, Illinois, was killed. Brigham Young then assumed leadership, and in 1845 removed the colony over to the Missouri River at Council Bluffs, finally migrating to the Great Salt Lake in Utah, two years later. Below Nauvoo are the Lower Rapids of the Mississippi, extending twelve miles to Keokuk, a beautiful city built partly along the river, but mostly on the summit of the bluffs, here rising one hundred and fifty feet.

Keokuk was a noted Indian chief, his name meaning the 'watchful fox.' Des Moines River, forming the boundary between Iowa and Missouri, flows in at the lower edge of the city, having come down from the northwest and passing the Iowa State Capital, Des Moines, at the head of navigation, where there is a population of sixty thousand and extensive manufactures.

This city has a magnificent Capitol, erected at a cost of $3,000,000, and its prosperity is largely due to the extensive coal measures of the neighborhood. It has grown around the site of the former frontier outpost of Fort Des Moines, built in the early days for protection against the Sioux. Below are Quincy, Hannibal and Alton, the latter being just above the confluence with the Missouri, and then the Mississippi River flows majestically past the levee at St. Louis, the chief city on its banks, having two great railway bridges crossing over to the Illinois shore. When the French held Louisiana, a grant was made in 1762 to Pierre Ligueste Laclede and his partners to establish, as the 'Louisiana Fur Company,' trading-posts on the Mississippi. Laclede in that year came out from France to New Orleans, and in 1764, in order to open the fur trade with the Indians on the Missouri, he ascended the Mississippi, and on February 15th made the first settlement on the site of St. Louis, building a house and four stores and naming the place in honor of King Louis XV.

He had frequent journeys along the river, and died upon one of them near the mouth of the Arkansas in 1778. The post was made the capital of Upper Louisiana, but it grew very slowly, having only a thousand people when Louisiana was ceded to the United States in 1803. The development of steamboating and afterwards of the railway systems, all the great lines seeking St. Louis, gave it rapid growth subsequently, and its population now reaches seven hundred thousand. Cara Download Game Gta San Andreas Untuk Pc there. It spreads with its vast railway terminals for nearly twenty miles along the Mississippi, sweeping in a grand curve past the centre of the city, which rises in repeated terraces as it extends westward back from the river, the highest being two hundred feet above the water-level.

It has an enormous trade and extensive manufactures, being the largest tobacco-making city in the world, and having one of the greatest American breweries, the Anheuser-Busch Company. Its Chamber of Commerce, of sandstone in Renaissance, is a noted building, and its grand Court House, erected as a Greek cross, is surmounted by a dome three hundred feet high.

It also has a new and magnificent City Hall. Louis been singularly free from fires, but its great disaster was upon May 27, 1896, when a terrific tornado swept through the city, killing three hundred people and destroying property valued at $10,000,000.

The chief institution of learning is Washington University, which has fine new buildings in Forest Park on the western verge of the city, and cares for seventeen hundred students. The park system is very extensive, spreading partially around the built-up portions and embracing twenty-one hundred acres. The chief of these are the Forest Park, with fine trees and drives, the Tower Grove Park, Lafayette and Carondelet Parks, and in the northern suburbs O'Fallon Park, having adjacent the spacious Bellefontaine and Calvary Cemeteries. The gem of the system, however, is the Missouri Botanical Garden of seventy-five acres, the best of its kind in the country, which was bequeathed to the city by Henry Shaw, a native of Sheffield, England, who came to St. Louis, grew up with the city, and died there in 1889.

The great attraction of St. Louis is its splendid bridge crossing the Mississippi, built by James B. Eads and completed in 1874 at a cost of $10,000,000, carrying a railway across, with a highway on the upper deck, being more than two thousand yards long, and resting on arches rising fifty-five feet above the water. The railway is tunnelled under the city for nearly a mile, and leads to the Union Station, which is one of the largest in the world.

The Merchants' Bridge, which cost $3,000,000, brings another railway over, three miles above, and a third bridge is projected. The vast aggregation of railways centering at St. Louis also uses another bridge route north of the city, crossing the Missouri just above its mouth and then the Mississippi to Alton on the Illinois shore. The military post of St. Louis is Jefferson Barracks down the river, an important station of the United States army.

Sitka, Alaska, from the Sea Within Alaska, the route of exploration continues through Clarence Strait to the Alexander Archipelago, comprising several thousand islands, many of which are mountainous, and about eleven hundred of the larger ones have been charted. Here is Fort Wrangell, seven hundred miles from Victoria, on one of the islands, a little settlement named after Baron Wrangell, the Russian Governor of Alaska in 1834. Upon landing, the visitors see the Indians and their chief curiosity, the 'totem poles,' erected in front of their houses, and carved with rude figures emblematic of the owner and his ancestors. These poles are twenty to sixty feet in height, and two to five feet in diameter. The natives are divided into clans, of which the Whale, the Eagle, the Wolf and the Raven are the chief representatives and are said to have been the progenitors.

These are also carved on the poles and show the intermarriages of ancestors, the leading families having the most elaborate poles. Beyond Fort Wrangell are Soukhoi Channel and Frederick Sound, leading into Chatham Strait, having on its western side Baranoff Island, on the outer edge of which is Sitka Sound. Here is Sitka, the capital of Alaska, in a well-protected bay dotted with pleasant islands in front and having snow-covered mountains for a high background. Alexander Baranoff founded the town in 1804, the first Russian Governor of Alaska, and there are now about twelve hundred inhabitants, mostly Indians. The old wooden Baranoff Castle, which was the residence of the Russian Governors, is on a hill near the landing-place. The main street leads past the Greek Church, surmounted with its bulbous spire, having six sweet-toned bells brought from Moscow, and adjoining it are various old-time log houses built by the early Russians. The church is still maintained by the Russian Government.

The visitors buy curiosities and invest their small change in the Indians who get up monotonous dances or exciting canoe races for their amusement. It is a curious fact that, owing to the Kuro Siwo, or Japanese warm current coming across the Pacific, Sitka has a mild and most equable climate, the summer temperature averaging 54° and the winter 32°, the thermometer seldom falling to zero. The Stephens Passage leads north from Frederick Sound, and into it opens Taku Inlet, a large fiord displaying fine glaciers.

Here at Holkham Bay in 1876 began the first placer gold-mining in Alaska. Just beyond is Gastineaux Channel, between the mainland and Douglas Island. Upon its eastern bank, nine hundred miles from Victoria, is Juneau, the largest town in Alaska, having fifteen hundred population, about half of them whites; an American settlement, begun in 1880 under Yankee auspices, and named after the nephew of the founder of Milwaukee, Wisconsin. The people are mostly gold-miners. The little white houses are on a narrow strip of comparatively level land along the shore, having a high and precipitous mountain behind.

Juneau deals in furs and Chilkat blankets, the latter, when genuine, being made of the hair of mountain-goats and colored with native dyes. It is also a starting-point for the Klondyke and Yukon regions. Across the narrow strait, upon Douglas Island, is the famous Treadwell gold-mine, having three enormous ore-crushing mills, the largest in the world, aggregating nearly eight hundred stamps. This is a huge mountain of gold-ore which John Treadwell bought in 1882 from its owner for $430. It has paid since then $9,000,000 in dividends, and now with increased output crushes three thousand tons of ore daily, netting $4 gold per ton, and pours into the laps of the Rothschilds, its present owners, probably $2,000,000 annually from the enlarged product.

The ore actually in sight in the mountain is estimated to be worth five times as much as was originally paid for the whole of Alaska. There is a native Indian cemetery adjoining Juneau, having curious little huts containing the cremated remains of the dead, with each one's personal effects. THE GREAT MUIR GLACIER. Passing west of Douglas Island and through Icy Strait to Glacier Bay, a magnificent view is presented. Snow-covered mountains rise six and seven thousand feet all around, and to the northwest is the imposing Mount Fairweather range, elevated over fifteen thousand feet. Glacier Bay extends forty-five miles up into the land, its width gradually contracting from twelve to three miles.

Small icebergs and floes cover much of the surface, as they are constantly detached from the glaciers descending into it. At the head of the bay is the greatest curiosity of Alaska and the most stupendous glacier existing,—the Muir Glacier,—named in honor of Professor John Muir, the geologist of the Pacific coast, who first saw it in 1879 and thoroughly explored it in 1890. When Vancouver was here at the close of the eighteenth century he wrote that a wall of ice extended across the mouth of the bay. The belief is that the glacier once filled the entire bay and has gradually receded. Near the middle of the bay is Willoughby Island, a rock two miles long and fifteen hundred feet high, showing striated and polished surfaces and glacial grooves from bottom to top. This glacier far exceeds all the Swiss ice-fields put together, and it enters the sea with a front one mile and a half wide and two to three hundred feet high. Unlike the dirty terminal moraines of the Swiss glaciers, this is a splendid wall of clear blue and white ice, built up in columns, spires and huge crystal masses, displaying beautiful caves and grottoes.

It goes many hundreds of feet below the surface of the water, and from its front, masses of ice constantly detach and fall into the bay with noises like thunder or the discharge of artillery. Huge bergs topple over, clouds of spray arise, and gigantic waves are sent across the water.

Every few minutes this goes on as the glacier, moving forward with resistless motion, breaks to pieces at the end. The field of ice making this wonderful glacier is formed by nine main streams and seventeen smaller arms.

It occupies a vast amphitheatre back among the mountains, thirty to forty miles across, and where it breaks out between the higher mountains to descend to the sea is about three miles wide. The superficial area of this mass of ice is three hundred and fifty square miles.

It moves forward from seven to ten feet daily at the edges and more in the centre, and in August, when it loses the most ice, the estimate is that about two hundred millions of cubic feet fall into the bay every day. It loses more ice in the summer than it gains in the winter, and thus steadily retrogrades. The visitors go up to its face, although it cannot be ascended there, and then landing alongside approach it through a lateral moraine, and can there ascend to the top and walk upon the surface. The character and appearance of this famous glacier were much changed by an earthquake in 1899. Among the attractions are the mirages that are frequent here, which have been the origin of the 'Phantom City,' which early explorers fancifully described as upon Glacier Bay.

Other huge glaciers also enter these waters, among them the Grand Pacific, Hugh Miller and Gelkie Glaciers. THE KLONDYKE AND CAPE NOME.

Download Lan Games Project 20 Tsrh Pedicle on this page. Northward from the Gastineaux Channel stretches the grand fiord of the Lynn Canal for sixty miles. Snow-crowned mountains surround it, from whose sides many glaciers descend.

At the upper end this Canal divides into two forks—the Chilkoot and Chilkat Inlets, at 59° north latitude. This begins the overland route to the Klondyke gold region, and upon the eastern inlet, Chilkoot, are on either bank the two bustling little towns that have grown out of the Klondyke immigration—Skaguay on the eastern and Dyea on the western shore. Each of them has three to four thousand people, with hotels, lodging-places and miners' outfitting shops. Dyea is the United States military post, with a garrison, and here begin the trails across the mountain passes to the upper waters of the Yukon. A railway is constructed over White's Pass to Bennett Lake, and is now the chief route of travel. Pyramid Harbor and Chilkat with salmon-canning establishments are on Chilkat Inlet. Beyond White's Pass, which crosses the international boundary, the land descends in British America to the headwaters of the Yukon River, which are navigated northwest to Dawson and Circle City and other mining camps of the Klondyke region, where the prolific gold-fields have had such rich yields, there having been $40,000,000 gold taken out in two years.

The Yukon flows a winding course westward to Norton Sound on the Bering Sea, discharging through a wide-spreading delta. The port of St.

Michaels is to the northward. There are two routes to the Klondyke from San Francisco— via Skaguay and overland a distance of about twenty-three hundred miles, and via St.

Michaels and up the Yukon forty-seven hundred miles. The Alaskan coast beyond the Muir Glacier is bordered by the great St. Elias mountain range, rising in Mount Logan to nineteen thousand five hundred and thirty-nine feet, the highest of the Rockies, and in Mount St. Elias nearer the coast to eighteen thousand and twenty-four feet. From the broad flanks of St.

Elias the vast Malaspina Glacier flows down to Icy Bay on the Pacific Ocean. There are mountains all about this region, which the official geographers are naming after public men, among them being Mount Dewey. To the westward the vast Alaska peninsula projects far out, dividing the Pacific Ocean from the Bering Sea, terminating in the Fox Islands, of which Ounalaska is the port, and having the Aleutian Islands spreading beyond still farther westward. It is a remarkable fact, indicating the vast extent of the United States, that the extremity of the Aleutian group is as far in latitude westward from San Francisco as the Penobscot River and coast of Maine are eastward. To the north is the Bering Strait, having the Russian East Cape of Siberia projecting opposite to the Alaskan Cape Prince of Wales to guard the passage into the Arctic Ocean.

Here, upon the southern shore of the protruding end of Alaska, and fronting Norton Sound up almost under the Arctic Circle, is the noted Cape Nome, the latest discovered gold-field, about a hundred miles northwest of St. Fabulous golden sands are spread out in gulches and on the beaches, and Nome City has become quite a settlement. This is the latest El Dorado to which such an enormous rush of prospectors and gold-hunters was made in the early spring of 1900, many thousands filling up every available steamer that could be got to sail northward. The prolific output of these gold-bearing sands is said to exceed the Klondyke in its yield, and this will be the golden Mecca until somebody crosses over into Siberia or goes up nearer the North Pole, and finds there a new deposit of treasure. Already it is said that Nome City spreads practically for twenty miles along the sea-beach, and that the industrious miners are getting much gold by dredging far out under the sea, and expect to secure fifty millions annually from this remote but extraordinary region. Nome City, like everywhere else that the hardy American pioneer raises the flag for discovery and settlement, has its newspaper, the Gold Digger, and this enterprising publication thus poetically describes the new El Dorado of the Arctic seas, the 'Golden Northland'.

'O, tundra, beach and lavish stream! O'er thee a world expectant stands; With Midas measure may'st thou fill The myriad eager, outstretched hands.'

Wonderful is our latest American Continental possession—the rich territory of Alaska. Limitless are its resources, unmatchable its possibilities. One of its admirers thus sounds its praises: 'In scenery, Alaska dwarfs the world. Think of six hundred and seventeen thousand square miles of landscape. Put Pike's Peak on Mount Washington or Mount Mitchell and it would hardly even up with Mount Logan. All the glaciers of Switzerland and the Tyrol dwindle to pitiful summer ice-wagon chunks beside the vast ice empires of Glacier Bay or mighty Malaspina.

Think of a mass of blue-green ice forty miles long by twenty-five miles wide, nearly the size of the whole State of Rhode Island, and five thousand feet thick, glittering resplendently in the weird, dazzling light of a midnight sun.

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